You Can Make It -- A Skirt for American Girl Doll

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for American Girl Dolls

The instructions for making a simple skirt for your American Girl Doll has been moved to our

Maiden Flight Clothing Blog.

You can access it by clicking on here.

You Can Make It - AG Doll Beach Bag/Tote

Thank You

Before I show you my project, I want to thank all of you who have stopped by to visit with me in the past few weeks since I began my posts. ( Rebecca had helped me with the initial set up back in August of 2007, but it wasn't until July of this year that I finally sat down to share my thoughts and interests. ) I appreciate all the kind words of encouragement you have sent my way. It has been such fun visiting those of you who have left comments and seeing just who you are and what you interests are.

YOU CAN MAKE IT!!

You might remember seeing this little tote from my Sew Crafty Friday post. This is a very easy bag to make because most of the construction is done on a flat surface. I am teaching you the technique for making this tote bag, but what I want you to realize is that this technique can be used for any size tote bag you desire -- just change the dimensions.

You could make it a little larger for a little girl's purse, or a little larger still for a little girl's tote bag, or make it much bigger for an adult.

The bag you see here was made of light weight cotton and interfacing. But you could also make the outside of this bag from a heavier, stiffer fabric such as demin, canvas, upholstery fabric, or quilted fabric. The lining fabric should still be a lightweight cotton fabric.

Novelty fabric can customize it to the user's interests. It's easy flat construction make it a good beginner's project. It makes up very quickly -- great for gift giving.

Although this bag has no closure, it would be a simple to add velcro or a snap.

Okay, you get the idea, so let's get started!

It will be helpful to read all the directions, before starting your project.

Step 1

You will cut

1 piece 10 1/2" x 6 3/4" from the fabric you choose for the outside of the tote

1 piece 8" x 6 3/4" for the pocket

1 piece 10 1/2" x 6 3/4" from coordinating fabric for the linining of the tote

1 piece 10 1/2" x 6 3/4" from interfacing

2 pieces of 3/8" wide grosgain ribbon - each piece will be 16 1/2" long

Step 2

As shown in the photo below, sandwich the interfacing between the two pieces of fabric of the same size. The wrong side of both fabrics would face the interfacing. Now stitch both short sides 1/4" from the edge. Stitch both long edges 1/4" from the edge.

Step 3
Align the short edges and fold in half to determine the center of the long sides. Mark the center of both long sides. As shown measure and mark 3/4" on each side of that center mark.

Step 4
Turn over the short ends 1/4" and press. Then turn it over 3/4" and press. Stitch in place through all layers of fabric. Repeat for other side. (This will form the finished edge around the top of the tote bag.

Step 5
Turn the long ends of the pocket section over 1/4" and press. Turn over 1/4" again and press. Stitch in place. Do this step for both long sides of pocket section.

Step 6
Align long sides of pocket section and fold in half. Mark center of both short sides.

Step 7
Being careful not to twist -- stitch together the two pieces of ribbon (used for straps) to form a circle. Press seams open.

Step 8
With right sides facing up, match the center mark of the tote with the center marks of the pocket section. Pin securely in place. See photo below for placement.Step 9
Measure and mark right side of fabric 1 3/4" along both long sides.

Step 10
Turn fabic over. Lining side will be facing you. Stitch along the lines you marked in Step 3. This stitching will form the bottom of the pockets.

Step 11
Pin the ribbon along the placement lines you marked in Step 9. Be certain that the seams of the ribbon are aligned with the center of the base of the tote. This will insure that the handles are the same size. See photo below.
Step 12
Edgestitch both sides of the ribbon.

Step 13 (Optional)
If you desire to add a fastener (Velcro or snaps). Now is the time. Center between the handles and stitch on.

Step 14
Fold the Tote in half as shown below. Stitch sides of tote. and press.

Step 15
Fold the tote as in the photo below. Align the side seams with the center of the base of the tote. This is IMPORTANT as it makes the mitered corners straight. Stitch across the base of the triangle, using the stiching for the bottom of the pockets as your guidelines. Restitch directly on top of first stitching to reinforce.

Turn right side out and you are DONE!

Now, wasn't that easy?


The variations on this bag are LIMITLESS. Use your IMAGINATION and CREATIVITY.

If you do this project, I would LOVE to see it. Post a picture on your blog of your finished projects. Then use the choxbox on the side bar to give me the name of your blog and your blog address.

Didn't your mama always tell you to SHARE?

SEWING TUTORIAL AND TIPS - Making Bias Tape

In my last sewing tutorial, I showed how to streamline a pattern to eliminate the need for making bias binding. However there are times when this cannot be done. For instance the method I last showed you would not work if the bias binding had to be placed on a curve. In addition there are times when bias binding is used as a decorative touch as on the collar in the above photo.

In the past I have found making bias binding to be time-consuming, but now I have found a "little helper" that eases the labor of making bias tape. So let's take a look at a relatively quick way to make bias binding.

Step 1: Gather the following tools and supplies: Cutting mat, rotary cutter, ruler, bias tape maker, iron, and of course, fabric.Step 2: Align 45 degree line on the ruler with the selvage edge of the fabric.Step 3: Rotary cut the fabric. Discard the inital triangular piece of fabric or save it to your scrap bag.Step 4: The width of the next strip will vary depending on the width of bias binding you are making. My bias tape maker makes 1/2 inch bias binding, so according the directions included with it I cut my next strip 1 1/8 inches wide. Continue to cut as many strips as needed for the length of bias binding needed for your particular project.STEP 5: After cutting all your strips you will need to sew them together. Place two strips together to form a 90 degree angle. Right sides of the fabric are facing each other. They should be placed on top of each other exactly as shown in the above photo. Pin together to prevent them from slipping out of place.STEP 6: Sew together using 1/4" seam allowance. I usually use a very small stitch and eliminate the back stitching.Step 7: Press all seams open.
STEP 8: Using rotary cutter trim away all extra fabric at the seams.

Ths is a photo of the bias tape maker I use. This "little helper" and the rotary cutter are what really speeds up the bias binding procedure. The bias tape maker is manufactured by Clover Mfg. Co. LTD. I purchased it at JoAnn Fabrics. I never pay full price for my sewing gadgets because in my opinion they are all over-priced. I usually wait until I have the store's coupon and purchase the gadget for 40% off. The bias tape maker is available in the following widths: 1/4", 1/2", 3/4" 1", and 2".

STEP 9: Insert fabric strip into end of bias tape maker.

STEP 10: Then pull the bias tape maker slowly while ironing the folded tape.

The result is perfectly straight and pressed bias binding that matches and is ready to be used in your project.

NOW GET SEWING!

Sew Crafty Friday - Matching Little Girl & AG Doll Dress

Before I share a recent sewing project with you, I want to apologize to anyone who tried last week to visit our Sew Crafty Friday page from the link on Shereen's blog and found themselves on the wrong page here at Brambleberry Cottage. I set the link just to come to my blog and not to a particular page. The good thing is that I have learned from my mistake .

...And now on to our project...

The project I have been working on this week is very "hush - hush" (A gift to be given) and so I certainly could not display it here for prying eyes to see. LOL So instead I will share a project I did earlier this year ... a dress for a dear little friend and her AG doll.

This is a photo I took of the dress (modeled by my dd2's doll) before I sent it to Grace for her birthday.
Children's apparel is my favorite item to sew. I love all the special touches that can be added -- embroidery, tucking, piping and the like.I used Vogue Pattern #V7958 for a matching little girl's dress. I did change the collar to a peter pan style collar rather than use the collar that was used on the original pattern. I can never leave patterns well enough alone. LOL
The AG Doll dress was not actually a particular pattern. I designed it to match Grace's dress.


SEWING TUTORIAL AND TIPS
Making a pattern more "User Friendly"


You might remember these bonnets from last week's post. I'd like to use them as an example of making a pattern more user friendly (and time saving).
For the little girl bonnets I had used Simplicity Pattern #5042. The pattern instructed the sewer to cut a piece of bias binding to use as casing for the elastic at the back of the bonnet and to sew a narrow hem at the side and bottom back edges of the bonnet. I had sewn the bonnet on the right using that method.

I saw two problems with that method
1. Bias binding wastes a lot of material because of having to cut it on a 45 degree angle to the selvage.
2. I find pressing and sewing the narrow hem to be tedious and time consuming.
Also, I think my alternative method (shown on the left of the photo above) gives a much more "finished" look to the bonnet.

So, here's my remedy... STEP 1: I drew a line 3/4 inch above the line for the bias binding placement printed on the pattern. (This allows for 1/2 inch casing for the elastic and 1/4 inch to be turned under for a clean finished edge. STEP 2: I made a photo copy of the section I wanted to copy and cut it out up to the line I drew. No Copier? Place a piece of tissue paper over the original pattern and trace the lines up to the line that was drawn.STEP 3: I taped it to the bottom of the pattern to produce a mirror image. To do this I had to flip the copy over (printed side of copy would not be seen because it was facing down). STEP 4: I pinned the adjusted pattern piece to the fabric and cut it out.

STEP 4: I turned the fabric right sides together and stitched the side seams. Turned the fabric and pressed. This step eliminates the need for a narrow hem. STEP 5: I turned inder 1/4" at the top and stitched it closed. (This formed the top of the casing for the elastic.) STEP 6: I sewed a second line of stitching 1/2" inch below the STEP 5 line of stitching. (This formed the bottom of the casing for the elastic.) STEP 7: Last, I inserted the elastic into the casing. At this point it looked like the above photo.

Because I often make these bonnets to sell or give as gifts, the changes made to the pattern piece will save me material and time on future projects.

Don't be afraid to adjust or change a pattern to suit yourself or to make it more user friendly. It's not hard to do. Usually, it just takes some good common sense. If you are making several items from the same pattern (perhaps for a craft show or perhaps for several items from a favorite pattern), the small amount of time it takes to change the pattern will save you much more time in the future.

Keep Sewing!

If this tip has helped you or sparked your creative juices, let me know, and I'll keep trying to add these little sewing tips to my blog in the future.
To view craft projects shared by other bloggers or the share your own creations, be sure to visit SEW CRAFTY FRIDAY on Shereen's blog at http://www.w8ng4him.blogspot.com/

Sew Crafty Friday - Bonnet Babes

I am so excited today... I have often enjoyed looking at all the projects on Sew Crafty Friday,

Today, this is my first contribution. This is what has been my priority project for the week.

I have a bonnet each for two little girls I know and a bonnet for the one's 18" doll.

INTERFACING TUTORIAL

Most patterns do not give separate pattern pieces for interfacing. Instead the pieces that need interfaced have instructions something like this:

Trim 1/2" seam allowances from interfacing sections before fusing to collar, cuffs, etc.

I believe I have a better way. This is a very fast and easy way to make a pattern for the interfacing that can be slipped into the pattern package for the next time you use that pattern.

STEP 1: Cut the number of pieces of fusible interfacing that are needed for the project you are working on. In this example I needed two pieces to fuse to each of the brim pieces. In addition cut one piece from thin non-fusible interfacing. (I keep some non-fusible interfacing on hand for this purpose). To save time I layer the fusible and the non- fusible interfacing and cut all three pieces at the same time.

You are cutting the interfacing from the same pattern piece from which you cut the fabric.

When I was done cutting the pieces for the brim, I had cut five pieces that were exactly the same size -

2 from from fabric

2 from fusible interfacing

and

1 from non-fusible interfacing

(the scissor tips are pointing the to non-fusible interfacing that will become my interfacing pattern when I make this pattern in the future.)

STEP 2: Next measure the seam allowance marked on the pattern piece.

STEP 3: Align the fusible interfacing and the non-fusible interfacing and pin the edges together.
Now sew them together using 1/8" less seam allowance than you measured on the
pattern piece in the Step 2. For instance: if the seam allowance on the pattern piece
measures 5/8", you would stitch the interfacing together using a 1/2" seam
allowance. 5/8" - 1/8" = 4/8" or 1/2"

STEP 4: Now cut directly on the stitching line to remove the seam allowance.

STEP 5: Gently separate the layers from each other.

Note that I have a piece of fusible interfacing to fuse to both of pieces of fabric for the brim. I also have a piece of left over non-fusible interfacing (at the top of the photo) that I can now use the next time I cut out interfacing for this pattern.

The original pattern piece for the fabric is at the top.The pattern piece I made from the non-fusible interfacing is at the bottom.

STEP 6: Write the name of the pattern company, the number of the pattern, the name of thepattern piece, how many to cut of your pattern piece, and the size.

On the interfacing pattern in my example I wrote

McCalls

#3827

Brim Interfacing

Cut 2

(As this was a doll pattern, there was no need for size.)

STEP 7: Tuck it away with the rest of the pattern in the pattern envelope. The next time I use this pattern, there will be no need to trim the interfacing; this will save me considerable time. I will simply use this new pattern piece I created for the interfacing and eliminate the need for trimming.

Please let me know if you find this tuturial helpful. In future posts I plan to share more helpful tips that I have gleaned in my nearly forty years of sewing.

To see more craft projects, visit Sew Crafty Friday.